Rabat's 12th-century Oudaias Kasbah. Alamy We cross the square to the opulent mausoleum of King Mohammed V, who died in 1961.

Tucked away in the Kasbah des Oudayas, in Rabat, Morocco’s capital city by the sea, I bite into a pastilla (a delicious mix of shredded chicken, almonds, cinnamon, saffron and honey encased in ...